Monday, May 07, 2007

Middle Settlement Lake Rock Recon

Kate and I took a day from spring skiing to do a little recon and climbing at Middle Settlement Lake. I knew that there would be some potential there. Here is what we found.

3.2 mile, relatively flat hike into Middlesettlement Lake


End of the lake, cliffs are right here also


Nearing the end of the lake the large boulders at the base of the cliff come into view. Several large blocks that would make for good bouldering.




Pictures from looker's left to right along cliff. Cliff tapers down just outside left side of picture. The cliff is 20-25' high here. The first small roof is encountered here.




The big roofs on the highest point of the cliff (50'). These would be probably some very hard routes or possibly aid routes.






Looking towards right end of cliff


Far right hand end of the cliff


From ground level there are three overhangs that would be good bouldering problems or make for very difficult starts to climbs.





We tried to climb this on the left end. The crux is right above where I'm standing. Somebody tall (I'm 5'10) could make the stretch to the next ledge for a handhold which would make it significantly easier. Will be back to try to get a FA on this one.


In retrospect we wished we spent some time on this crack. Looks to be easy climbing up to the tree and then an offwidth crack up to the top of the column. We will be back to give it a try.


Another route that looks possible for mere mortals but still wet.


The rock is solid, didn't encounter any chossy, crumbling rock. Routes require little or no preparation. Anything under the roofs is bare rock. Some lichens a few places that need some brushing but otherwise good to go. All routes are protectable top roping. There are many trees for anchors up top but little rock on the cliff edge. Long runners or a static rope would be helpful. Don't expect to be plugging in cams in cracks up top because there aren't any. There are 3-4 routes that I see could go under 5.10 but the rest are some serious climbing with big roofs to negotiate. The cliffs range from 20'-50' high.

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